Corey passed my studio on a Saturday in November of
2010. She excitedly came in with her
fiancés to find out more about what Twice Blushed had to offer. Her eyes started to light up with excitement,
as she told me about her mother’s wedding dress from 1968. Typical 60’s style
dress but contained beautiful lace, unfortunately like most dresses passed on
from mother to daughter, the dress would not fit Corey. As I was telling Corey about possible
directions we could go with her mother’s dress she confessed that she made the
mistake of shopping to quickly and purchased a dress at a sample sale while
visiting friends back home in Cali. She realized
to late it’s not really what she wanted, since all sales were final, she was
stuck with it. Ladies, let this be a
reminder, don’t drink and shop! If the
bridal boutique offers you champagne only drink one glass or you are likely to
make a bad choice, forget to ask pertinent Q’s, and often over spend. Lucky for Corey, she found me.
Corey and I met a few weeks later for her consult
appointment, both dresses in tow and prepared with photos of design details she
determined liking after her quick dress splurge. (Thank you Corey for being wonderfully
prepared!) She wasn’t kidding, the lace
on her mother’s dress was stunning! I
had never seen lace like this. It looked like hand crocheted flowers blended
with hand embroidery on silk organza, lots of creative potential to work
with. Then we looked at the dress Corey
had already purchased, plain, typical strapless mermaid with a train. The only intriguing thing about this dress,
also the reason Corey was interested in it, was the unusual color sort of a
lavender undertone to a deep ivory almost champagne.
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Before of Mothers dress left, sample gown right. |
We began to widdle through photos setting aside the ones
that were consistent in design and theme leading us to the lace pattern we
created. To my surprise Corey asked if
it was possible to dye to the lace. (In
my mind I was excited about the possibility of dying fabric; however the risk
factor is always there especially when you’re dealing with unknown fabric that
can’t be replaced.) Expressing the
caution I explained that we could but we would have to sacrifice some lace for
color testing, and once I cut apart your mothers dress there is no going
back. Without hesitation Corey said
let’s try it! We talked lace color options and finished walking through the
design changes. In all the combined reconstruction consisted of: remove
gathered bust line pattern to a smooth standard bust, side seams and bum
shaping alterations, deconstruct mother’s
dress, test lace pieces, actual dyeing of lace, cut apart and create the appliqué
lay-out then sew on, and finish with a bustle.
A week later, as requested, Corey dropped of paint chips as
a guide for dye test. The colors ranging from milky tea to latte…fitting for a
Seattleite.
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swatches of dye test samples |
Meanwhile, I started talking to a friend of mine Kelly, who
does the costume crafts Seattle Repertory theatre, about some dye techniques we
could try on the fabric. The good old
way of throwing fabric into a pot of color wouldn’t work. The lace would come out a different color
from the organza. Not good. The organza
needed to stay the sheer color it was, so it would not show in the areas that
stayed in tack. Kelly tried variations
of fully tea dipped which had minor changes to the organza to painting the lace
by hand. After seeing the swatches
Corey was set on the coloring of the hand painted technique.
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Lace appliques cut away from organaza |
While Kelly painted, I began the dress modifications, allowing
me to focus on the lace as soon as it was finished. Seven hours spent just cutting the organza
away from the embroidered lace. Next is
pining the lace on in different configurations to the dress to determine the
most attractive pattern that flatters the curves of the gown. To give you a sense of how much work goes
into a custom gown, from testing the lace dye colors, cutting out the lace, to finished
sewn on appliqués, the lace portion of the dress took 34 hours. It was lovely and so personalized.
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Reworking the bust and creating lay-out of lace appliques. |
As the big day crept closer, the stress of planning an out
of state wedding paired with final exams caused Corey to shed a few
pounds. That perfect fitting garment had
to undergo some quick alterations. Sadly,
all of that beautiful lace work transferred flawlessly a month earlier would
have to be somehow adjusted with a center back alteration. Unfortunately, given the short time frame,
the only way to make this dress fit was taking it in through the back. Regardless Corey, made it through finals, looked
lovely, and even though her dress started out as mistake purchase it was
beautifully sentimental and truly one of a kind.
Happy 1st anniversary you June birds!
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Happy 1st anniversary you June birds! |